Second time around and I'm back at Bodhgaya.
After finishing our retreat at Bhaja we were off to Arungabhad where we enjoyed the hospitality of some local mitras (Order friends). From this base we explored the ancient caves of Bhaja, Ajanta and Ellora. Fantastic sculpture and painting. Great atmosphere.Next stop was Jalgon, to catch a train up to Varanassi. We had a few spare hours here and took the opportunity to enjoy a Bollywood movie (When we first met) in a local Cinema. Three hours of hit musical and very hi energy love story - a bit like 1960's Cliff Richard movies. When the couple finally kissed the whole audience got up and cheered and clapped! Lots of fun, even without subtitles.
The train journey to Varanassi was my third overnight train trip. This was my longest so far, about 21 hours including signal problems. When the points were jammed we all spilled out onto the tracks to walk about and talk. Very Indian.
At Varanassi we walked around the rabbit warren of the old city before ending up at the Burning Gats.
This is where Hindu's carry out open air cremations on their holiest of rivers.
It was a deeply moving experience to see public cremation in this way. We stayed for quite a while, quietly watching and reflecting.
Two Poems:-
Goodbyes
Sitting on the floor at the feet of the funeral pyre the old man looks on resignedly, arms wrapped around his knees
Periodically his head drops onto his raised arm - as if resting from tiredness or from his loss
Stretching out a hand he feels the warmth of the pyre - the last warmth his wife will offer him.
Mother India
Flaming teardrops pour from dead woman's head, incandescent into the dry sands,
fiery pearls of fat at play with the elements, beautifully contrasted with the darkening sky.
Two little girls weave in and out of the metal railings, slapping each others hands playfully and practicing their gymnastics.
Dropping lithely to the gat below they lift the Ganges sands in their tiny hands and let it run through their fingers, watching it escape like time on a lazy heat hazed afternoon.
Mother India dancing between their fingers, so fertile, so giving.
Later a boat ride down the Ganges. Our boatman stopping to buy a cigarette from another boatman offering a range of goods - convenience shopping Ganges style. Sunset over the Ganges. Candles floating downstream.
As night closed in, a closing Dilwali festival with fire puja carried out to hi-energy music on the banks of the Ganges. Silver Cobra offering bowls and fly whisks, drums and bells accompanied the six young men dressed in finest Benares silk who carried out the ceremony. A complete contrast to the earlier experiences of the day. Life and light, dancing, shouting, so many people, so much confusion and noise.
Sarnath. Ritual at the Dhammek stupa. Tea and sweets at the Thai temple with the most senior Indian born Bhikku (monk) Ven. Sassanaraksmir.
He took temporary ordination at the age of 21 in order to attend the first international Buddhist convention, he was to disrobe straight after the convention. Dr Ambekar (the Great Buddhist Dalit leader) asked to him to consider keeping the ordination and not returning to lay life in order to set an example for the thousands of newly converted. He felt torn between these two paths. On the boat trip to the conference he reflected on his own selfishness and then threw all his worldly belongings into the sea, marking the end of his lay life. He is now 86 and has accomplished much, including founding several libraries and temples a school for 300 local children, a farm, and a retreat centre. He speaks 5 languages and is currently building and 80ft high stone Buddha statue. What energy!
In Sarnath we were staying at Tranghu Rinpoche's monastery. The Dalai Lama favoured Karmapa arrives the same day we do. Our schedule is tight so we are unfortunately unable to see him or receive blessings.
Our Tibetan friends and helpers Wangpo and Buddha Tamang, take us to a friends house for dinner. Momos (veg. dumpling), soup, bread and Tibetan butter tea (thick and salty!)..
In Bodhgaya. Meeting up with the TBMSG/FWBO Dhammakranti retreat. 850 Indian Buddhists gathered from 16 different Indian states. We receive a warm welcome and much interest in our foreign presence.
Later a procession to and puja at the Mahabodhi temple, near the Bodhi tree. Probably 750 of us attended. Very powerful to do puja with so many people. A great feeling of family and shared vision.
The "other" Karmapa is here giving initiations. With our retreat and the usual pilgrims the town is buzzing. It's great to see the huge Tibetan ceremonies and the Karmapa under the Bodhi tree giving his initiations. He seems to have quite a following.
Constant travelling takes a psychic toll. I awake in the night. The room is completely dark, eyes shut or open, I can't tell the difference. Where am I? I haven't got a clue. Not even sure who I am. As consciousness gets stronger I slowly manage to get my bearings. An unsettling Bhardo moment. A breakfast of hot milky porridge with Tibetan bread and jam. Equilibrium restored.
Much Love,
Jayasiddhi
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