I've been here in Kalimpong for three nights now. We are staying in Sangharakshita's old hermitage. It has lots of colonial character if a little cold and damp (no heating).
It's pretty cold here (4000ft) but a bit warmer than Darjeeling. It looks like we were lucky to get out of Darjeeling before the general strike and limited violence of the last couple of days, the army are still on standby. It would have been a bit unnerving to get stranded in the middle of all that.
We still have a general strike here in Kalimpong and this cafe shouldn't really be open. There were some running street fights and one political attack two days ago. Things seem to have calmed down a lot. We leave tomorrow in a police jeep (the brother in law of our friend Wangpo).
This part of West Bengal is fighting to be recognised as an independent state (Ghuorkaland) as it is made up of Nepali's, Tibetans, Tamangs and other hills peoples in addition to displaced Indians pushing up from the plains due to population pressures. Darjeeling has eight political parties and a Tibetan mafia who enforce the strikes. Things get complicated in Indian politics.
First day here we are unable to leave the grounds due to the political situation. Fortunately, the grounds are about 2 acres of beautiful hillside with tame white rabbits wandering around along with the geese and ducks and a wide selection of orchids to admire, not to mention a stunning view of Mount Kachenchunga (the world's third highest mountain - I think).
First evening I succumbed to the dreaded amoebic dysentery (the third in our group to do so). Not fun to say the least and kept me pretty occupied for about 12 hours. I managed to get my bodily fluids under control by lunchtime yesterday with the help of various anti vomit & anti diarrhoea medication. I am on a five day course of antibiotics and still feel a bit weak. Looking on the bright side, I was putting on a little weight anyway.
Today a visit to Sangharakshita's old vihara (now a policeman's house) and then on to the Indo Tibetan Buddhist Culture Institute (Dhardo Rinpoche's school). It was great see the valuable work here both in education, helping orphans and in promoting traditional Tibetan culture. We sponsored and attended a long life puja for the latest Dhardo Tulku, carried out in Dhardo's shrine room by 6 monks from the local Gelug gompa. Finally we were treated to a show of Snow Lion dancing, then a traditional women's folk dance and a song on some interesting instruments whose names completely escape me.
I have seen many Gompa's in this area (Siliguri, Darjeeling and Ghoom) mostly associated with Dudjom Rinpoche, Chetul Sanghe Dorje Rinpoche and Dhardo Rinpoche. Great to meditate and do puja in these places associated with Sangharakshita's teachers.
Next stop Sikkhim.
Love,
Jayasiddhi
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